This morning I opened my wallet to find I had less money than I expected. The daily park fees are 400 rupees and I kid you not, I was just short – I had 390. “Christ what am I going to do now?” I thought somewhat peeved that I had been careless not to keep […]
February 25, 2014
When I first explained my itinerary to Ashok he looked at me quizzically. “You want to go Delhi to Jaipur, Jaipur to Ranthambhore, Ranthambhore to Bharatpur and Bharatput to Agra,” he said shaking his head from side to side. “Yes, what’s the problem?” I asked looking him straight in the eye. He let out a […]
February 25, 2014
After being disappointed at missing out on seeing a tiger I was rewarded last night by seeing a fat snake in Bharatpur. I was walking along the pathway of Keoladeo National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and a naturalist persuaded me to climb down the steep bank into the bushes to peer closely at […]
February 24, 2014
Sawai Madhopur is best know for one thing – Ranthambhore National Park. It’s home to some very special biodiversity including the tiger. Safaris take place twice a day, so as not to put too much pressure on the animals because the noise from the jeeps is loud. Early morning drives start at 0630 until 1000 […]
February 23, 2014
The driver who arrived to pick me up in Delhi was not the same man who dropped me home the night before. “Where’s Mr Singh?” I asked. Looking sheepishly at me with his head bent down and his right hand cupping the back of his neck, he raised his gaze and looked at me, “His […]
February 22, 2014
The first thing that strikes you when you get to Delhi is the sheer volume of people. The torrent of human traffic is a little overwhelming. I opted to stay in a boutique guest house which is in a charming neighbourhood. It’s affordable chic and there are only six rooms. It’s nestled in the shadow […]
February 22, 2014
It’s quite one thing to hear about elephants on the road, all dolled up for wedding season and another to witness it in the flesh. What a magnificent beast!
February 21, 2014
In the last two months I have managed to be in four different continents (America, Europe, Africa and now Asia). I am in India, my ancestral home. I feel happy here, a lot of my childhood upbringing was steeped in Indian tradition and it makes me feel connected to the billions of people who live […]
February 14, 2014
The speed at which Brice Mouapele moves through the dense tropical undergrowth is impressive. The hot damp humid air is stifling, but Mouapele appears unaffected as he brushes past thick shrubs and jungle vines in his camouflage fatigues clutching his rifle. The 39 year old pygmy is the latest addition to the team of eco-guards […]
February 11, 2014
As a conference on wildlife trafficking opens in London, Congo conservationists claim Chinese in the country are boosting the supply of AK47 bullets to poor communities to encourage elephant poaching. Odzala-Kokoua National Park is Congo’s biggest national park and contains one of the country’s most intact savannahs, as well as a vast expanse of equatorial […]
February 26, 2014
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