The road from Agra to Delhi is long. It’s made even longer if you can’t afford to pay the toll charges on the Yamuna Express Highway. A private road that was built. There are about three toll stops each will cost a car driver around 100 rupees a go. When I quizzed Ashok which route […]
February 27, 2014
Agra is famed for the Taj Mahal. A beautiful marble white domed structure commissioned by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. It took thousands of labourers to build it and years too. The project was to commemorate his third wife a Persian woman, Mumtaz, who died giving birth to his 14th child!! When I asked, the locals […]
February 27, 2014
Before coming to India I had planned to take the train to each of my destinations. Everyone I consulted gave me a different response. Some friends said do it, it’s cheap and the best way to see India conveniently. Others said only do it if you can travel first or second class for safety and […]
February 26, 2014
As the train pulled into Achnera station, Ashok and I pushed our way through the human bollards to the carriage door. It was already wide open as people were sat on the floor with their legs swinging outside. The momentum of the train appeared to show no sign of slowing down. It made me think […]
February 26, 2014
This morning I opened my wallet to find I had less money than I expected. The daily park fees are 400 rupees and I kid you not, I was just short – I had 390. “Christ what am I going to do now?” I thought somewhat peeved that I had been careless not to keep […]
February 25, 2014
When I first explained my itinerary to Ashok he looked at me quizzically. “You want to go Delhi to Jaipur, Jaipur to Ranthambhore, Ranthambhore to Bharatpur and Bharatput to Agra,” he said shaking his head from side to side. “Yes, what’s the problem?” I asked looking him straight in the eye. He let out a […]
February 25, 2014
After being disappointed at missing out on seeing a tiger I was rewarded last night by seeing a fat snake in Bharatpur. I was walking along the pathway of Keoladeo National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and a naturalist persuaded me to climb down the steep bank into the bushes to peer closely at […]
February 24, 2014
Sawai Madhopur is best know for one thing – Ranthambhore National Park. It’s home to some very special biodiversity including the tiger. Safaris take place twice a day, so as not to put too much pressure on the animals because the noise from the jeeps is loud. Early morning drives start at 0630 until 1000 […]
February 23, 2014
The driver who arrived to pick me up in Delhi was not the same man who dropped me home the night before. “Where’s Mr Singh?” I asked. Looking sheepishly at me with his head bent down and his right hand cupping the back of his neck, he raised his gaze and looked at me, “His […]
February 22, 2014
The first thing that strikes you when you get to Delhi is the sheer volume of people. The torrent of human traffic is a little overwhelming. I opted to stay in a boutique guest house which is in a charming neighbourhood. It’s affordable chic and there are only six rooms. It’s nestled in the shadow […]
February 27, 2014
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